How did Roopkund happen?

The Past.

KedarTal .. The trek that seems to be more jinxed for me than anything else in this world! I am pretty sure, If you read my blog, you would come across the line “but unfortunately I had to cancel my Kedartal trek….. “ Well was jinxed again. October 2012, 23rd being a Wednesday and a holiday, it was ideally decided to take two of the days off and head to Kedartal, with me and my friend Vivek in agreement. Heck, one week before the 19th Vivek drops out due to personal reason, but I still insists that I want to do Kedartal this season no matter what! So I talk to my trek organizer and he says would cost me close to 20K from Uttarkashi-Kedartal-Uttarkashi and all that because I am alone. Too expensive, and now that I am no more single, needed to do a trek that comes light on the pocket. 

Enter, Arshad, a co-trekker whom we met on our trek to Dodital-Dharwa Top. He had done Roopkund earlier in the year, at 8K per head. I got the details guide and co from him, planned my itinerary as per my leave schedule, compressing it as much as possible and plan in place.  For more INFO on Roopkund please check: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roopkund

Above link will tell you facts of Roopkund. Now what locals say is an interesting story. And I quote from one local, whom I met while having my dinner at Devaal. “Once there was a king named Raja Yash Bhawan (RYB) from the state of Uttar Pradesh in India. He was traveling in these parts of Himalayas with his troop and pregnant wife who was close to delivering their baby. Once close to Roopkund, near Bhaguwasa, the mountain Gods ordered him to return back, because where they were was a sacred land, and his queen cant deliver the baby there.  RYB being so arrogant he was he ignored those orders and kept marching ahead. Finally when they reached the Roopkund they face the wrath of mountain gods, who buried the whole troop under the avalanche of snow. The remains of whom are still visible at the base of lake” 

Now that was the legend of the mysterious skeletons, in the lake.  Next year though is not a great time to go to Roopkund, if you don’t like crowd. Why. Because theres gonna be the Nanda Raja Jat Yatra. More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanda_Devi_Raj_Jat 

The Travel.

You do Roopkund trek either with the Indiahikes, of whome I am not a big fan off, though love the treks they organize or you need you need to know these two people:

1. Mr. Raju: 08979321600: He will take care of all your travels from Kathgodham to Lohjung
2. Mr. Mohan Singh Bhist:09012173647: He will take care of your trek to Roopkund.

Firstly, let me tell you Indiahikes organizes the Roopkund trek fantastically well. What I don’t like is their itinerary and their massive groups of 20-25 people, of which many seem to be first timers. While trekking I need to be on my own or with my friends. I enjoy my trek that way. I always ask the guide to leave me on my own, and only wait for me if there is chance of me getting lost on the path or a technically difficult section to cross. 
Secondly, Mr. Raju owns a cloth shop in Devaal and is not a Travel organizer. He does that out of good will. Not sure if you should give him something. 

Ok. I started from Delhi on the 22nd night on a bus to Kathgodham. By 7.30 I was at Kathgodham, where driver arrange by Mr. Raju waited for me. We drove to Devaal, via Gwaldham, while having sumptuous Chicken for lunch at Gwaldham. By 2.30 we were at Devaal, where I met Mr Raju at his shop. Then took a shared jeep to Lohjung which would further drive me to Van/Wan costing me 600/- again arranged by Mr. Raju. 

Trail to Roopkund.. 

At 7.00 pm after much stopping and dropping people, I finally reached Wan, were I first met Surendar, my guide to the trek. He escorted me to a local homestay, where I dinned and waited to meet Mohan, my trek organizer. He suggested me another guide who would join me and Surendar for Roopkund trek as he was a bit tangled with some work. Trusting him to provide good guide I went off to sleep. Surendar was just back from Roopkund a day earlier, so I was feeling confident enough. 
So here’s the layout for the trip from Gurgaon to Roopkund and back… 

• Wan to Bedni - ~12 Km of upward Trek
• Bedni to Bhaguwasa - ~11 Km  gentle followed by steep climb
• Bhaguwasa to Bedni - ~11 km of gentle and downward walk
• Bedni in Snow - Freezing Cold Evening
• Bedni to Wan to Devaal- Downward trek and small climb followed by drive.
• Devaal to Gurgaon - Road travel 4 am to 2 am.. 

The Trek Route

Wan to Bedni

Next morning, Mohan came calling, I met Bhagat, my co-guide. Breakfast done, stuff packed and we were ready to hit the moun tains by 9.00am. We decided to take the shortcut that leads to Rani Ki Dhar a ridge above Wan village, post which you descend down to Neel Ganga and then take on the steep climb to Bedni Bugyal. Well, it dint take me too long to realize, that we should have started earlier in the day to beat the heat. On top of which a continuous relatively steep climb don’t help. 

Soon we crossed Rani Ki Dhar and relief came as we descend to Neel Ganga. The relief is wiped off your face as you start the climb to Bedni Bugyal. The zig-zag path brings you slight relief but never for once it stops climbing for you. A continuous ascent and by 1 pm we were at Paatal Nachuni. If one has enough time on hand can break here for day. We dint, so quick Maggie lunch and we hit the path again. From here on, on a clear day one could sight Trishul in between the trees. But not today, as it was cloudy form most of the day and snowed heavily a higher reaches. 

We came across the Indiahikes group trekking down to Wan village, telling us about their unsuccessful attempt to Roopkund. Most of them had to come back from Kaluvinayak temple, as it snowed heavily and without proper equipment’s, it was impossible to reach Roopkund. It was then I started cursing myself for delaying the trek by 2 days! Damn It.. But then as usual, we will see as far as we can go. 

After trekking for about hour-hour and half from Paatal Nachuni, we had Bedni in our site. As we reached Bedni,  we found all the forest huts were occupied by the Indiahikes group, so we settled into one of their tents. How wasteful of those boys and girls to not stay in those tents. Agreed, the huts are comfortable, but staying in tents is a different experience all together. 

Bedni, had already received snowfalls before I reached, so the grass was brown rather than the green carpet its famous for. That evening the sky dint clear and the hope of capturing Trishul & Nanda Ghunti under the golden tinged sunset light, failed. Post dinner, the skies cleared up. Managed to capture some shots of Trishul, under the moonlight, which was followed by goodnight sleep. Well thanks to those horses with bells hanging around the neck, night sleep was not as comfortable, rather disturbing. 

Bedni to Bhaguwasa

Speaking to all the groups and guides from Indiahikes we learnt that reaching Roopkund without proper equipment was impossible. So instead of moving ahead and camping at Bhaguwasa and waiting/hoping for snow to be cleared next day, with our time window, was not feasible. So we decided to attempt to Roopkund, as much possible today. Our target was minimum to reach Kaluvinayak and assess the situation from there on. 

We started at 6.30 today, considering the distance we intend to cover. The sky seemed clear as every morning and the meadows had a very thin crust of ice on them. Heavy breakfast and me and Bhagat were on the way. Soon we were at Bedni Kund which was semi-frozen, indicating what the night temperatures would have been! 

From here a short steep climb takes us on the rather gentle path to Pathar Nachuni. Weather stayed good until then and clouds were just beginning to form. At 9 we were at Pathar Nachuni, chomping on Aloo Paranthas, roasted potatoes  and boiled eggs. By now the clouds had gone dense and Trishul started to disappear.

With a sunken feeling, we knew the weather would turn bad and the incredible sight of Trishul and Nanda Ghunti from Kaluvinayak may not be possible! But we have no control on weather, Mountain Gods have. So we left it on them and began the steep, intimidating ascent to Kaluvinayak. In all honestly, thanks to the zig-zag path the climb is not very steep, but due to rapid height gain and lesser oxygen, it takes a toll on body, especially if you are not well acclimatized. Thankfully I was, well in control of my body. By 11.30 we were at Kaluvinayak rather disappointed to see the heavy cover of cloud and thick snow atop. 

A quick breather, few biscuits and water, we decided to head as much as we can and return back if the weather doesn’t open up. And it dint! We walked upto Bhguwasa and beyond and the cloud cover got denser. All we could manage to peek was the ridge of Roopkund and Junar Gali. 

The snow got thicker as we went further ahead and soon cold winds brought along tiny flakes of snow. As suggested by Bhagat, it was no point going any further, so we decided to head back to Bedni.. 

Bhaguwasa to Bedni

The Snow torture.. 

Alright now, how bad could ones bad luck get! Being touching distance away from Trishul and Nanda Ghunti and yet not being able to see it, it can’t get any worse than that! Oh, welcome to my world then.. Few minutes later, the tiny snowflakes started getting bigger and bigger, denser and denser and later started to pour from the sky. Winds got stronger and flakes got bigger. Every time they hit my face, it felt as if the bee stung! Careful negotiation through slippery path with near zero visibility, brought us to Pathar Nachuni forest huts, where we decided to break and let the weather calm!

To our surprise there was a bunch of trekkers from Bengal, with full-fledged camping equipment’s and ration planning to attempt Sheila Samudra! Unfortunately nobody told them, it snowed heavy and every an attempt to Roopkund would be futile, rather dangerous without proper equipment. Equipment which they dint have! No offense, but I hear a lot of stories from all my guides I have been with about the stubbornness of Bengalis (not all of them), when in mountains. They attempt and try to do things which are not advised, out of their stubbornness, not only risking their lives but also the ones who guide them there… Call it brave, I call it stupidity and idiotic at its best! Never play with the nature, because if nature gets angry you are done for good. As the famous quote goes “NO MOUNTAIN IS WORTH DYING FOR!” 

Well, all I could do is advise them that it would be too risky without proper ice equipment’s. The guides and porters they had dint seem very pleased with their decision, but they had to earn their livelihood. All they could do is advise, it was up to them to take it or not. OK, Rant over!

As me and Bhagat thought, that the snowfall is subsiding, we started to head back to Bedni. As soon as we stepped out, it got heavy again. It was as if the mountain gods were playing with us. Luring us to come out thinking snowfall is over and as soon as we came out, bombarding at us again! Having a good laugh there Ehh! We had no choice so we kept walking amidst the snow and by 4.00 we were at Bedni.